After the flood, a new restaurant business opens in Midleton

FOOD is a major part of James Cullinane’s life. As well as being a chef who recently opened a restaurant in Midleton, his mum, Florrie, and dad, Paddy, of Shanagarry, are chefs too!

“I leave the day job and go to mum and dad’s,” says James of his eating habits. “They are always cooking!”

James, through Darina Allen, went to work for the famous Irish chef, Richard Corrigan in Mayfair, London.

In November, he joined brothers Colin and Barry Hennessy in launching their new venture, Church Lane Bar and Restaurant in Midleton - a posh new eatery in the heart of the town.

James explains the thinking behind his homecoming to East Cork “My girlfriend wanted to come back to Ireland. And at the time, so did I.”

What was it like moving from Mayfair to Midleton?

“Working for Richard Corrigan in Mayfair was really high end,” says James, who built up an impressive career with the crew in Ballymaloe, doing a stint in Ardmore Cliff House, and working as head chef in Longueville House for three years.

“Working life in London was full on, working long days, often up to 14 hours a day.

“Richard Corrigan is a lovely fellow and I got great training in his kitchens. Now I am happy to be on board with Colin and Barry here in Church Lane.

“The vibe here is really good. I have lived in Midleton for five or six years and I knew there was potential for a bar/restaurant that was not your standard place.”

Not surprisingly, the Midleton community rallied around the threesome as they prepared to open their doors on November 3, in what was previously known as Joe’s Pub.

After Midleton businesses were left devastated by Storm Babet in October, the three local entrepreneurs were inundated with well-wishers for their new venture.

“All our neighbours, even those badly affected by the floods, stopped by to wish us the best of luck,” says Barry Hennessy.

“It was very uplifting for us. Even though it is exciting times; it’s also nerve-wracking. We took a bit of a leap of faith, but the response has been really reassuring.

“You can really feel the strong sense of community here, which is rare in a town of this size.”

Colin and Barry, like James, have a history of family business dynamics behind them.

“Our dad and uncles are involved in Ballycotton Transport,” says Barry, who spent 13 years as operations manager in Castlemartyr Resort.

“Colin and I have 35 years of the hospitality business behind us.

“I worked as front of house for 15 years and Colin has 20 years as a chef under his belt. We also run the Hunted Hog in Castlemartyr together.”

The Hennessy brothers, having clocked up years of experience and years of dealing with the public, wanted to open a business together.

“Colin and I talked about it,” says Barry. “We didn’t have a massive plan.

“While managing the Hunted Hog with chef Billy Aherne on board, we both had our eye on something local. When Joe’s came up for lease, we decided to go for it.

“We began to get a team in place, and we rated James highly, as did everyone else. So we started the conversation.”

The brothers wanted to create an atmospheric, friendly bar with low lights and a glowing fire where folk could meet for a pint after work or before dinner.

The dining room opposite the bar has the same ambience and atmosphere as the bar area, where people can enjoy a home-made scone for elevenses or a tasty lunchtime pie.

“We liked the idea that people didn’t have to move on after 8pm,” says Barry. “They could stay here for the night and enjoy the live music at weekends.

“As well as offering top-class cuisine, we wanted people to have fun and enjoy a vibrant atmosphere.”

They wanted people to savour the tasty offerings from chef James too.

“Church Lane is a testament to contemporary dining,” says Barry, who has put a delicious home-made scone, jam and cream beside my rich Americano coffee as we talk.

Do the brothers and, more importantly, the threesome doing business, Barry, Colin, and James, get on well?

“We get on 100%,” says Barry, who likes going to rugby matches and having a pint in his spare time.

“There are no egos. We have healthy debates from time-to-time.

“We are both family and friends, and we have the same goal to make a success of the business.

“We see things similarly. Colin, who is married to Holly, is a real people-person. He makes sure to welcome everyone at the door and say goodbye when they are leaving. He welcomes any feedback. Colin is passionate and motivated.”

But everyone leaving is well fed?

“We sure hope so!” says Barry, laughing.

For three young men, the hospitality trade can be unsociable, can’t it?

“It is a choice in life,” says Barry. “You have to love it and have the drive for it, otherwise it is a waste of time. If we didn’t love what we do, we’d find a job, nine to five.”

The lads were working all hours getting the premises ready to rock, and ready to cook.

“Colin did a lot of the painting and we all mucked in doing a lot of the DIY ourselves.

“We have a good relationship with tradesmen and our suppliers; we didn’t have to pay them all at once,” says Barry.

A new business doesn’t get established all at once.

“We’ll keep producing the goods,” says Barry. “We have staff with the right attitude who welcome people in and make sure that they are well looked after, giving them personal service.”

Barry, a young entrepreneur, is enthusiastic about Church Lane Bar and Restaurant.

“It is our baby,” he says.

The trio will make sure the show is always on the road.

“We’ll keep rocking and rolling and give people a reason to come back.”

Their top-class Sunday roast is a good reason to re-visit Church Lane.

“Yes, we do the traditional roast, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings,” says Barry. “Not many places do the Sunday roast these days.”

Looking forward to doing a good trade in 2004, the three lads are on the up-and up, becoming established and well-known in the town of Midleton.

“The goodwill is fantastic,” says Barry. “Local publicans and staff from local eateries made a point of coming in and wishing us well. We were never used to the town spirit. It’s great!”

Church Lane, Midleton, is open for lunch and dinner bookings. 021-462 1229.