The Pubs of Cork: If a storm blows in, we have to batten down the hatches

It is situated just 10 metres from the Atlantic Ocean, and boasts spectacular views of the harbour, so no wonder Donal and Mark Crosbie are loving working together at their pub, The Bulman Bar & Restaurant in Kinsale.

“The Bulman always had a great reputation,” says Donal. “We want to maintain and build on that.”

The brothers set out to make a splash when they took over the pub from Pearse and Mary O’Sullivan in November 2022. “We want to put our own spin on it,” says Donal.

The historic maritime seaside building dates back to the 1800s and was once a single-storey pub, The Thatch.

It is now very much a family affair.

“Our sister Jenny works with us and she looks after front-of-house,” says Donal.

“We fished her back from South Africa where she was working a tour guide,” adds big brother Mark. “She is currently on maternity leave. With a baby on board, Jenny will be looking for a babysitter!”

Donal, who is married to Dara, is head chef at The Bulman and adds: “I take care of all the admin, the payrolls, etc.”

He explains that the locals are a crucial part of the business.

“Because we are located in such a nice spot beside the sea, much of our business tends to be seasonal,” says Donal. “We rely on the locals a lot.”

Tourists flock to the pub when the sun is shining, and in the cold winter evenings, they can sit by the fire, drink in the sea views, and watch the sea-swimmers, the day-trippers and the fishermen.

“We meet a lot of Americans and people who have holiday homes here in Kinsale,” says Donal. “Now they are locals!

“Kinsale has a multi-national scene all year round. We like to shop local for our fresh produce for the restaurant upstairs. Our lobster comes from Eamon O’Neill. In the evenings we try and introduce more meat dishes.”

The Bulman has a long reputation for good food, a welcoming ambience, great music sessions, and a good vibe.

Have brothers Donal and Mark a good vibe?

Donal laughs.

“On the rare occasion we butt heads,” he says. “And we both learned from any mistakes.”

Donal, who has two young children, is aware of the importance of a good work-life balance.

“It would be very easy to be married to the job. I try and keep work and home separate, making the necessary time for both.

“It’s good to have a life/work balance and to keep work and home life separate.”

So I assume that he doesn’t bring his work home?

“No, I don’t! Dara and I are both culinary people,” says Donal. “We share the cooking. When I get home, I take over and try to spend quality time with Dara and the kids. I love being at home.”

Recent years have been a bumpy time for business.

“It was very difficult during covid and even post-covid,” says Donal, who worked in Corrigan’s Mayfair and in Chapter One in Dublin.

“We went in here head-first. It was a case of sink or swim.”

“The hospitality business is very fast-paced,” adds Donal. “And it can be a rat race. As we all know, costs are soaring, with inflation, the cost of energy, and gas has gone up.”

That’s why the open fire is so inviting and welcoming.

“We have a lovely mix of people who gather by the fire of an evening,” says Donal.

They are often entertained.

“Mark is a musician,” says Donal. “Often, we have music sessions at the weekend. In October, during the Jazz Festival, we have seven or eight gigs. There is a great buzz.”

Mark wasn’t always in the hospitality business.

“We did separate things for a while,” says Donal. “Mark was in Dublin and he got the opportunity to come back.”

Why?

“I love the premises and I love the location!” says Mark. “The building is so old and quirky. The historic presence is very appealing.”

Did being a publican always appeal to him?

“I never considered being a publican!” says Mark.

He jumped in at the deep end then.

“I had to be taught how to carry a plate, several plates! I’m not qualified!”

He wasn’t long getting the hang of it.

“There is a way to hold yourself when dealing and engaging with people,” says Mark.

“Our team of professionals working here are amazing. I studied them and now I work harmoniously with them and with huge enjoyment.”

He is qualified in the things that matter to people.

“Yes! A big smile certainly helps!”

“We are so close to the ocean that when a storm whips up, we have to batten down the hatches,” says Mark.

“Doors that swing open have to be secured. Finding leaks in the building during a serious storm is not uncommon.”

Mark is also a piano player. “My grandad played the piano and my dad does too,” he says,

“I like to give chances to music groups or bands who may be travelling around Ireland. It’s good to give them a go.”

Mark is always game to give people a chance.

“You roll with the dice and see what happens,” he says.

The Crosbie brothers haven’t left anything to chance.

The local seafood, crab, scallops, lobster and of course the fish and chips, are a well-known staple at The Bulman.

“It’s great to see people enjoying themselves and having a good time,” says Mark.

The ‘best pub in Ireland’ contender, adjacent to the historic Charlesfort, has it all.

“We like that the pub has bonhomie, that it’s warm and friendly, and it’s not too pretentious,” says Mark.

So, he’s glad he took the plunge to work with his brother in The Bulman three years ago?

“The energy is great here. I love it.”