The Village Pubs of Cork: ‘A pub is hard work - it’s the community that keeps it going’

When I arrive at The Kilbrittain Inn - or Josephine’s, if you are a local - the doors are open and the beer garden is visible from the street.

On this day, the landlady is awaiting a new business sign, so there’s no name over the door.

Next door used to be a pub too, Cashman’s, which closed during covid. In between the two buildings is a little cabinet with a sign saying ‘book swap’, with books underneath.

The cafe across from Josephine’s has seats outside, and two people stop in at the nearby grotto.

The mid-afternoon quiet feels temporary in this village 8km south of Bandon. Inside The Kilbrittain Inn, the stools at the bar are still empty, but not for long. A young couple enter who are anticipating a busy night.

Evening tends to bring its regulars - farmers, local sports teams, dart throwers, and poker enthusiasts, all spilling in for a chat, a pint, and to exchange some news. Every legal age. This is a community.

Josephine Dineen has run this place for 30 years - the anniversary falls next month.

“I bought it in August, 1995 and moved in the following month,” says Josephine, while her son, Cian O’Leary, and partner Gerry, a former publican in his own right, chime in from either side.

Kilbrittain was very vibrant at the time she moved in. “There was a garage, two shops, a lovely shop down the end of the street, and a shop across the road. And a petrol pump. Now it’s just myself, a shop across the road, and a post office.”

Today, some of these aspects of rural vibrancy have been quelled. The garage is gone. One of the shops closed.

Regarding the former Cashman’s pub next door, Josephine says: “They were trying to sell before lockdown. It was already coming, but covid kind of sealed it.”

Cian agrees: “It’s hard to sell a pub now. Gerry was lucky to sell his place. Most aren’t selling.”

Still, Josephine’s doors remain open. The last social outlet in the village.

And, despite the wider narrative of decline in Ireland’s rural pubs, Kilbrittain’s sole remaining bar is more than holding its own.

“It’s a very steady village.” Cian explains. “The locals are very good, in fairness. Since the lockdown, things have gotten better in my view.

“What we saw is the older generation always went to the pub, and it was then you wouldn’t see much young clientele, only for the weekends. Now it’s like people are just coming out from Monday to Sunday.

“There’s a good local community, they’re very good to support in fairness. It’s a great local community.

“Since lockdown, people’s habits have changed. They’re coming out earlier, and going home earlier,” Cian explains.

“One time, they’d come out at half-eleven, and you’d be stuck here ’til one,” Josephine laughs. “We all have a life now.”

That shift in attitudes, they say, began during the pandemic, when customers got used to the imposed curfews and found they didn’t miss the late nights as much as they thought.

“People like being home earlier,” says Josephine. “They can get up in the morning, get on with things. And, you know what? The evenings are still busy.”

On a typical night, the pub is a hive of activity. There’s darts and poker tournaments. The local GAA lads pop in after training for a pint. The soccer team, which Josephine sponsors, often pours in after matches.

“It’s the gathering spot,” says Cian. “You’ll have your farmers at one end, your young lads at the other, but everyone interacts.”

Unlike nearby tourist towns like Kinsale, comparatively, Kilbrittain doesn’t see as many outside visitors. Off the beaten track, it’s a few winding turns from the main road and it’s not really on the way to or from any of the main hubs, nor is it part of the world famous Wild Atlantic Way, which draws so many.

When a stranger walks into the Kilbrittain Inn, they’re noticed.

“I suppose, we’re going from generation to generation. It’s still the same families,” says Josephine.

Cian remembers the pub when he was a child.

“I was eight when we moved here. We used to open at half-ten in the morning back then, seven days a week.

“You had the same few characters at the counter every morning. The stories they’d tell, you could make a film out of it.”

Running a pub is no easy life. Josephine doesn’t mince her words.

“It’s hard work,” she says. “There’s no doubt about it.”

“But,” she adds with a smile, “when it’s going well, it gives you satisfaction. You get pleasure from that. You do.”

She and Cian do much of the upkeep themselves - painting, power-washing, fixing what needs fixing.

Cian used to have a day job, but eventually decided to focus on the family business.

“There’s always something to be done during the day,” he says. “Even when the doors aren’t open.”

Josephine’s partner, Ger, once owned and ran the Crossman Bar in Bandon and sold it recently.

“I only give a hand here when I’m told,” he jokes.

What keeps The Kilbrittain Inn going?

“There’s a fierce young crowd around,” says Cian. “They’re here, they’re not all gone abroad. That makes a difference.”

Still, the long-term future of rural pubs across Ireland is uncertain.

“Since I opened, there’s been more closures than openings,” Josephine says.

“The younger crowd, many of them go into Cork for the weekend. They want live music, something on. It depends on the community, really.

“If the community is vibrant, the pub stays open. It means a lot,” Josephine says. “To us, and to the village.”