WoW Bites: Meet three women leading events at Cork on a Fork

Cork On A Fork Food Festival continues to grow, with more events, venues, speakers, chefs, food and drink, and producers than ever.

The inclusive festival showcases the best of Cork’s food history, culture, and multiculturalism, and is a platform for the voices and perspectives of women in Cork to shout about why this is still the food capital of Ireland.

I asked three of the many leading female lights of our food scene about events they are hosting this year, why the festival is essential for championing the best of Cork food and drink, and how it is creating an impactful legacy for all.

Sally McKenna, McKenna’s Guides

For the first time this year, the Theatre of Food (ToF) comes to Cork On A Fork, on Sunday, August 16, with Cork’s best-loved food writers, Sally and John McKenna, at the helm.

For years, this showcase has been carefully curated and presented by the McKennas, but this year it’s a little different, as the next generation drives it on – in more ways than one.

“I don’t think food writers ever really retire, but festival organisers should! It’s definitely a young person’s game!” So says Sally, who has been involved with ToF since the early days of its foray into the Mindfield arena of Electric Picnic.

That young person comes in the shape of Sally’s son, Sam McKenna, who has been involved with their festival food antics since he was 15.

“I’m mostly hands off now, but I still come with suggestions of who I’d like to have on stage, but really it’s Sam that does all the work behind the scenes,” she says.

For Sally, this means two things: First, she can focus on the enjoyable task of presenting Cork’s talented chefs, producers, and creators under the festival marquee. Secondly, creating room for the next generation of talent.

“ToF has always been about bringing people in. We were very much the Derry Clarke and Paul Flynn generation, but with Sam, it means we get to work with the next wave of amazing chefs,” says Sally.

“The likes of Alex and Felix Castaldo of Tongue Tied, Patrick Nagle and Mike McGrath of Miyazaki, Dan Relihan from Soul, Aishling Moore of Goldie, Barbara Nealon and Rebeca Recary-Sanchez of St Francis Provisions, among others.”

There’s an altruistic element to sharing their platform with up-and-coming culinary talent, too.

“I remember being a 21-year old in the food world, and the old guard refusing to step aside to allow us to try and get a foothold. We want to be encouraging to other food writers to come in and find their place. John [McKenna] says we’re the ‘cool hunters’ looking for the next talent. It’s important because that’s what keeps food culture alive; it’s as much about the food writers as it is producers and chefs.”

In addition to Sally’s consistent and thoughtful championing of Cork’s culinary creatives on the ToF stage, she will also be flexing her skills at a free-to-attend day-long celebration of live fire cookery at Elizabeth Fort on Friday, August 14.

“Thanks to sponsorship from Supervalu, who stock a great range of premium steaks, I’ll be indulging in my love for live fire cookery using a Smokin’ Soul rig cooking Irish beef Picanha steak with a carrot top chimichurri,” says Sally.

The event also features Cork chefs Brian Murray (The Glass Curtain), Arun Kapil (Green Saffron), and Victor França (Nua Asador); all champions of this elemental style of cookery.

“I believe live fire cookery should be an element of every food festival, including Cork On A Fork,” Sally says.

The festival is “absolutely brilliant” for Cork, says Sally, leading to more demand for food tourism.

“The way to put a place on the map is to establish a community that can work together to put it there. There has been an explosive growth in food tourism since the festival began five years ago, and a growing awareness of the festival itself with international recognition from awards.

“It’s about people working together and remembering Cork’s history as a food capital; but we have to keep saying it, otherwise others will be quick to jump in and claim it for themselves!”

Orla McAndrew, OM Catering

Cork’s queen of zero-waste cooking is back doing what she does best: showcasing the best of Cork produce and using everything, including food otherwise destined for the bin.

“The big event for me this year is the Zero Food Waste Dinner at the Fountain in the English Market, on Sunday, August 16, in collaboration with FoodCloud – the food redistribution charity. It’s such an amazing opportunity to collaborate with them,” says Orla.

“I’ve been looking for ways to work with FoodCloud for many years, and this is the ideal setting. Because it’s happening in the English Market, I’ll be using many of my regular suppliers that are based there. I’ll make use of surplus from them and surplus from FoodCloud to create a completely unique menu.”

Because this is a menu based on rescued food, Orla won’t know exactly what will make it to her menu until 24 hours beforehand.

“I have no idea what the menu is going to be as yet,” she says. “I have an idea of what is in season and available in the market, so I’m working on menu ideas that way. I’m also making pickles and ferments ahead of time.

“The meal will be served as a family-style feast on the night. There will be a canapé reception with at least five different bites, followed by a three course meal for 52 diners.

“I would love for more of my events to be entirely zero waste because I get to be creative. You’re dealing with literally what’s in front of you and combining it the best way you can. It means every meal is always going to be unique, and for me, that’s exciting and creative. I’m not worried at all!”

If you can’t make the dinner, Orla will be at two other events across the weekend.

On the Saturday, from 2pm to 3pm, Orla will once again return with her cookery demo at the market’s Grand Parade entrance. Utilising fresh local ingredients to her signature zero waste ethos, she will champion what’s fresh, local, seasonal and delicious!

“I have done this cookery demonstration every year since the festival began, and every year it gets bigger. It’s a definite highlight for me. There are always lots of tastings and it is well attended.

“I’m also taking part in Cork On A Stick at the Festival Marquee on Grand Parade at 5.30pm alongside Epi Rogan and Meadhbh Halton. I’m really looking forward to the competitiveness of that event – there’s no harm in a bit of competition, and I’m feeling quietly confident,” says Orla.

As a champion of the festival since the beginning, she says the biggest impact of Cork On A Fork is reaffirming the city’s reputation as a culinary gem.

“Cork is the food capital of Ireland; I will certainly argue that! But the festival has really put Cork on the map, doing wonders to highlight our brilliant producers and amazing food experiences.

“I look forward to it every year and taking time to really enjoy what the city has to offer. I bring my kids, and they love wandering the markets, sampling everything and just absorbing the atmosphere of the city. I can’t wait!”

Beverley Matthews, L’Atitude 51

The owner of Cork’s L’Atitude 51 is welcoming wine-makers, chefs, storytellers, and toastmasters to her event: Supra – a celebration of Georgian wine, food and culture with Poliphonia Restaurant, Tbilisi, and John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears.

“This is an event we have been trying to organise for a long time, so I’m delighted and it’s coincided with Cork On A Fork,” says Beverley.

“Poliphonia Restaurant do pop-ups around the world. This year, they have been to Copenhagen, Barcelona, Japan, and Australia, taking the restaurant on tour and showcasing Georgia and Georgian traditions, wine, food and storytelling.

“We’re delighted they’re bringing it here as part of the festival. It’s a good time of the year for local produce and, combined with Georgian cooking techniques and traditions of music and storytelling, it should be a great evening of conviviality, sharing and feasting.”

Georgia is the oldest wine region in the world, around 8,000 years of continuous production, with its own indigenous grape varieties and wine techniques. It was almost lost forever during the Soviet era with old vines ripped up and replaced by more common grape varieties. For two decades, a committed group of winemakers, chefs and producers have been working to revive these almost-lost traditions.

Where there is food and wine, there is music and storytelling – and this is what Supra is all about.

“We’re really interested in the traditional wines of the country - those with a strong Georgian accent which go amazingly well with food,” says Beverley. “Dining in Georgia is such an experience. The Georgians see food as a gift from God, so everybody is made to feel welcome, and they lay on a lavish spread of many dishes filling the table with myriad flavours. Some seasonal and fresh, others pickled or fermented.

“It’s all sharing dishes. There’s nothing nicer than sitting down at a long table passing dishes around. It gets the conversation flowing; it’s a beautiful way to eat. There’s lots of toasting to friends, family, love, community; and they’re incredible storytellers. The whole meal becomes an interactive experience.”

You can find Beverley sharing her passion for natural wines at a talk with fellow wine appreciator, Colm McCann, hosted by Caroline Hennessy at the Stories & Sips stage, Counting House, on Saturday, August 15 at 1pm.

L’Atitude 51 is hosting Cork-based photographer, Joleen Cronin, for her popular phone photography workshop, sharing tips and tricks for capturing great images using the camera on your phone, on Wednesday, August 12, at 2pm.

On Saturday, August 15, Beverley’s team join forces with MacCurtain Wine Cellar for their North x South Wine Tasting. Already booked out, Beverley says tickets always come up so keep an eye out on socials for last minute dibs!

For Beverley, the true meaning of the festival is about collaboration and pride.

“The festival brings people together. Even though we’re part of a big community, we’re all so busy and we don’t get to spend as much time working together as we would like to. The festival gives us an opportunity to do that, and form friendships that last beyond the festival. It really is important for building community.”

The biggest impact, Beverley says, is the amount of recognition the festival is receiving outside the city.

“It’s gone from being a small local festival to something with momentum. We saw a lot of tourists from around Ireland making it their business to be in Cork that weekend. It has brought people into the city on a week of the year that would have been normally very quiet, and everybody benefits from that.

“I love that it opens hidden parts of Cork, too. The Goldie Chapel is being used this year for an event, as is St Fin Barre’s Church, St Peter’s and the Counting House. It’s great to see these spaces being used and fantastic for people to discover hidden sides of Cork.”

• Cork On A Fork Food Festival runs from August 12 to 16. See www.corkonaforkfest.ie.