Inside the Cork venue named Pub of the Year

The owners of Cork’s Lifeboat Inn have described being awarded the title of Pub of the Year as the highlight to what has been a very successful year for the venue.

The gastropub, which is firmly on the map as one of the top food spots in West Cork, is owned and run by Martin Buckley and David O’Halloran.

In announcing the award, judges stated that the Lifeboat Inn was “a pub that represents the very best of Irish food and culture, one that takes the Irish pub experience to a whole different level of excellence.”

It said the pub was one “where people are immersed in another world of warmth, conversation, laughter and fun. What we Irish call ‘the craic’.

The pub was also praised for its extensive use of local Irish produce, and for including traditional Irish dishes on the menu.

David O’Halloran said owning their own premises was a life-long dream for him and his husband Martin Buckley, and now winning the prestigious award is the pinnacle of another successful year for the business which opened in 2017.

The two men first met at college, and since then both have worked in some high-end hospitality venues in Ireland and the UK.

“After college, Martin worked as a chef in Hayfield Manor, Cork, and I worked as a waiter in 14a in French Church Street.

“We decided that we wanted to be the best of the best and so we went to work in London, as that’s where it was all happening.

“Martin worked in Le Gavroche and I worked in Chez Bruce and later in Gordon Ramsey’s in Chelsea. It was hard work, and it does take a lot out of you.”

The couple then returned to Dublin where Martin started as a chef in the Michelin-starred Chapter One and David became a restaurant manager at the Cliff Townhouse on Stephen’s Green.

It was then, says David, that they made a decision to work for themselves, and started looking for the perfect premises.

With both hailing from rural villages, Martin, fromInchigeelagh, Cork, and David, from Portroe in Tipperary, it was inevitable, says David, that they decided to set up outside the capital.

“I loved Cork from living here years ago. A place came up in Kinsale that we looked at, but that fell through so we felt it wasn’t meant to be.”

The men then travelled to Courtmacsherry, which was their first time visiting the town.

“We had never been there before, we knew nothing about the place, but when we went to look at the Lifeboat Inn, before even going inside we knew that was the perfect place.”

The pub itself has been in the town for over 100 years and was once owned by Beamish and Crawford who had leased the building for a number of years.

Since taking over the pub in 2017, Martin and David have built it into a thriving business.

A gastro-pub was always in their plans, and made easier, says David, by setting up business in an area abundant with local produce and artisan food producers.

“We’re so lucky here that 100% of our food is local. All our seafood is from Union Hall, all beef and pork is from Rosscarbery, and all our vegetables are grown locally.

“We’re so blessed in West Cork that we don’t have to go far for anything, it’s all on our doorstep.”

The Lifeboat Inn still retains a traditional bar and has a contemporary dining area, along with an outdoor space that overlooks the water’s edge.

It’s a busy pub, but, says David, it’s exactly what they were looking for.

“One of the reasons we moved here was for quality of life, we didn’t want the crazy 24/7 lifestyle any more, so it’s nice to have the craziness and the buzz of the summer months, and then in the winter it slows back down and you can enjoy life before the start of the next season.”

Although operating a restaurant in the current climate is difficult, David admits.

“The industry is really in a tough spot, you can see it from the closures up and down the country. The cost of living is hard for everyone, but in a restaurant it’s on every front.

“It’s not just our produce that has gone up, but also the cost of employing people, not only the minimum wage but also the employer’s PRSI costs.”

The Lifeboat Inn has a regular year-round clientele, even off-season, weekends are busy, with many people making an effort to drive to dine in the Lifeboat Inn, which David says is supported by their location.

“There are some great walks in the local area, people will go for a walk and then come here to eat afterwards, our Sunday lunches are always very busy.”

The Lifeboat Inn is also getting a reputation as a wedding venue, hosting five in 2024, but David stresses they plan to keep numbers to a manageable level, so that they can continue to offer an individual service, with a personal touch to couples.

Winning Pub of the Year is a great way to round off a successful year, says David.

“You know if someone has won a Good Food Ireland award they’ve been tested and retested.

“To become a member of Good Food Ireland, you have to show that you’re committed to embracing local produce, Irish food, and then when you are shortlisted, there’s still a vigorous testing procedure, with mystery customers visiting the venue. We’re delighted. For us the credibility of Good Food Ireland is second to none.”