Two new food ventures launch in  Midleton as town recovers from floods

Just over a year ago, a café in Midleton closed its doors temporarily after the devastating floods that struck the town. 

That café has since relocated across the street and a a new café venture has risen in its place on the corner of Connolly Street.

It is called Doughlicious, and the aroma of pastries, croissants and focaccia bread baking entices streams of people in.

It is the result of an ambitious project by Sarah Collins, of Carrigtwohill, and her Italian partner, pizza chef Giovanni Lemma.

Doughlicious is just one of two new café spots that are opening in Midleton - the other being The Fork & Wheel, formerly the Two Mile Inn, a famous landmark on the N25, which is due to open in the coming weeks.

This is clearly a town where opportunity is knocking for entrepreneurs.

I dropped in on both businesses, and started off at Doughlicious.

Sarah, whose background is in food marketing, spent 12 years working in the UK and two years in Argentina.

“Argentina was amazing,” says Sarah. “Just before covid, I thought of heading to Amsterdam, but I came home and bought a house in Midleton.”

She met Giovanni in a gym, and they became partners, and decided to become business partners too.

Sarah was sold on the idea of setting up a food truck with him, which operated on the Fair Green. Offering authentic Italian food, it was an instant smash hit with the locals.

“We are both massive foodies,” says Sarah. 

“The food truck was a test concept, and it went really well. We traded on Fair Green, at the farmers’ market, and we did outside catering events like the opening of Leeside United pitch, and the vintage fair held in Carrigtwohill.

“We had all the facilities required for outside catering and it really took off.”

Then, while she was considering opening another food outlet. Sarah spotted the former premises of a café called Toasties that had closed after the floods.

“Toasties was on my 5km running route,” she says. “I saw a sign on the window that they were moving across the street. We followed up on the possible availability of the premises.”

'A good mix'

Giovanni, as we speak, is up to 90 taking batches of fresh pastries and fresh focaccia bread out of the ovens. “When I was 14 years old, I set foot in my first pizzeria to work there,” he says. “I went to school by day, and I worked in the pizzeria by night.”

He was a natural dough and pastry baker, having the gift and the light-of-touch hands needed to produce the best of Italian pizza.

“I love to bake,” says Giovanni.

How does he feel about running his own bakery now?

“I am so excited,” he says, mopping his brow. “But I am just a little stressed also!”

No doubt the mellow tones of Giovanni’s Italian accent wipe away any feeling of stress his enthusiastic customers may feel.

“He sounds just like the singer in the Cornetto ad,” says an admiring lady in the queue.

Was Sarah stressed taking on a new venture after the devastating floods last year?

“Yes. I think that was only natural,” she admits. 

“We’ve applied for the flood grant and the community of Midleton are very supportive. They are all wishing us well. When we had our soft opening, the queue was down the street. Some of our neighbours came in for breakfast and then for lunch!”

Sarah is a logical person.

“Opening a business now might sound a bit crazy, but we have a first-class chef, Giovanni, and Erika, a first-class barista,” says Sarah. “A good mix.”

The trio has help from their friends too.

“The local Chamber arrived to offer us tips.”

Sarah has a business head and first-hand experience of how the food and hospitality businesses operate.

“We hope to grow the business as it progresses,” she says. “Sorting out the logistics will help us go in the right direction.

“We will continue developing and growing. We are practical and will grow steadily, learning as we go. Testing and learning is a good process.

“Right now, I’m setting up the website and social media,” adds Sarah, whose day job allows her to work from home.

No time for the gym then?

Sarah laughs.

“I have to resort to a mini 20 minute work-out on YouTube every morning,” she says.

Co-owning a business is “a balancing act”, and she adds: “You must be adaptive.

Lauazza is their Italian brand of coffee, and the items on the shelf in the shop are enticing too. “Our biscuits, chocolates, balsamic vinegar and our olive oil, all come from a supplier in Italy,” says Sarah.

There are lots of goodies in Doughlicious.

“Coffee, pastries, and filling sandwiches are available all day,” says Sarah. “And we’ll offer a hot dish of the day also, probably two delicious pasta options.”

I hear Giovanni’s distinctive mellow voice in the background of the café and kitchen. “Ah, Christina. You must sample the cornitti-style croissants with cream-filling. I insist.”

Try stopping me!

An old fashioned welcome 

My next stop in Midleton is to meet David Jordan, the young entrepreneur who is opening The Fork & Wheel, formerly the Two Mile Inn, later this month.

From Ballina in Mayo, he says: “I’m a blow-in from the west of Ireland and I love Midleton and the surrounding locality.

“The people here are so friendly, and we have been inundated with well-wishers since work began on the site.”

David has a long history of working with some of Cork’s best-known confectionary brands, including the co-founder of Aunty Nelly Sweet Shops and a Managing Director role with the Mallow-based TLC confectionary.

He says: “I love hearing stories from the locals about the hey-days of the Two-Mile Inn and the wonderful music sessions and enjoyable events that happened here. Like when The Wolfe Tones played here, they rocked the place!”

David will provide a good old-fashioned welcome on the mat for anyone who rocks up to The Fork & Wheel, the sign of which is lit up like a beacon in the sky.

“Hopefully, the customers enjoy the good coffee, the good food, the friendly service, and warm ambience that we aim to provide.”

Their pets can enjoy a visit to The Fork & Wheel too, when the pub, restaurant and coffee destination opens in late November.

“The café is dog-friendly,” says David. “I am a dog lover myself. I have two dogs who live with me in my new house in Midleton. At first, I lived up top here at The Fork & Wheel to get things going.”

Walkers and cyclists will soon have a lovely stop-off point to take a rest and enjoy a reviving coffee in the fairy garden.

David, founder of 5 Mile coffee, is well aware of the importance of aromatic, mellow flavoursome coffee.

“Good coffee here is a given,” he says. “After a walk on Garryvoe Beach, or a walk along the Greenway, we’ll welcome people coming into the cafe with their pets.

“In the summer, they can avail of the lovely outdoor area with seating. Location-wise, it is ideal. We hope to have at least 60 car spaces available.”

David, working on his labour of love for the best part of a year, donning his hi-vis jacket and hard helmet to be on site every day, says Midleton is beginning to feel a lot like home.

“The south-east has become my home. My parents live in Dungarvan. It is nice to be relatively near to them.”

What else brings him joy?

“My joy is working on the grounds and bringing flowers and shrubs back to life. Landscaping the garden is my personal joy.”

David says the completion of his big plans to make The Fork & Wheel into a “new and exciting” pub, restaurant and dog-friendly café is “really exciting”.

And Christmas is coming. “We have a fabulous Christmas menu on offer,” says David.

Any nerves or apprehension prior to opening the premises he dreamed of?

“I would be lying if I said I didn’t feel a little apprehensive and a little nervous!” says David laughing.

But he feels anticipation the most.

“Imagining the smiles of people when they enter The Fork & Wheel makes me very happy,” says David.

“There is such a dramatic difference, and I want to witness the look of surprise on their faces.

“I must admit we have created a most amazing venue for people everywhere to enjoy visiting.”

Does he feel Midleton is back on the culinary map, where it belongs?

“I certainly do,” says David. “East Cork has the most amazing food culture. It is well established as a food capital. That’s one of the reasons I moved here.

“I know with covid and the floods a lot of businesses suffered. Now I see new food outlets opening in Midleton and that’s just great.”

Hospitality can be a risky business these days.

“There is no denying that,” says David. “I think though that consistency and good value for money always wins out in the end.

“Having good staff is vital and promoting local employment is also vital.”

What does David like to do at the end of his working day?

“I love eating out,” he says. “I love getting ready, having a gin and tonic with my partner before we leave. I love the anticipation and look forward to the food.”