Tom MacSweeney column: Schull celebrates its rich sea life and maritime tradition

West Cork town Schull has a long maritime tradition. 

Commercial fishing there can be traced back to the 1500s. Historical records recount many seine boats, with particularly big catches of pilchards during summertime, that were salted and packed for export.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, fishing remained an important economic asset for the area. The Schull and Skibbereen Tramway and Light Railway carried barrels of cured fish from Schull pier for export, until it was closed in 1947.

The excellent Roaringwater Journal has published extensive pieces over the years about fishing. “Pilchards were the main catch. Huge shoals of them came to the comparatively warm, sheltered waters of the islands during the summer months, along with other oily fish, such as herring and mackerel. Seine boats were commonly used. Today, pilchards are rare. Through a combination of overfishing and changing climate, the bountiful shoals no longer appear.”

A crucifix and a bottle of holy water were essential items aboard the fishing boats.

“There were two boats per seine net: The ‘seine’ and the ‘faller.’ The seine boat was 27 foot long with a beam close to nine foot. The golden rule on the Northside was to never get into a boat whose beam was less than one third its length. 

"The seine boat had five oars of about 17 foot. The crew of seven had to shoot the seine net: One man shooting the trip rope, another to feed out the bunt rope, four men rowing, and the huer (master of the seine and captain of the boat) directing the operation.

"The faller (or bloc) boat was 24 foot long, with a crew of five. Its job was stoning and to carry any fish caught. The largest load a faller could carry would be around 5,000 fish. All boats carried a crucifix and a bottle of holy water,” wrote Patrick McCarthy and Richard Hawkes in the journal in 1991.

Fishing has suffered 

I have reported many news stories about maritime issues in Schull over the years, including fishing and sailing. In Schull, like in so many coastal communities, fishing has suffered in the West Cork port, now known more as a prominent sailing location, with last month’s annual August Calves Week having become a major economic boost.

With a wry sense of humour, Schull Harbour Sailing Club chose that name as a bit of comparison to the high-level UK sailing base of Cowes Week!

At the end of this month — on Saturday and Sunday, September 26/27 — the maritime history and present marine activities of the area will be the focus at the inaugural Schull Land and Sea Heritage weekend.

Announcing the details, Tim O’Connor, of the organising group, told me: “This new end-of-season festival celebrates West Cork’s seafaring history and vibrant harbour community, with entry to almost all events offered free of charge. The harbour will take centre stage. The maritime programme features spectator sports, including team racing sailing with live commentary, traditional yawl rowing trials, and open-water swimming. Cork County Council is supporting the festival.

The council said: “Visitors can also embark on guided bird-watching trips and a dedicated heritage trail on Long Island, or participate in shoreline foraging rambles that uncover the unique wildlife and marine harvest of the West Cork coast. The area’s rich maritime history will be brought to life through ‘Speaker’s Corners’ hosted in various village businesses.”

These sessions will feature local insights in to coastal fishing skills and traditions, alongside compelling accounts of life on the Fastnet Rock lighthouse.

Deep ocean connections

Highlighting the village’s deep ocean connections, the programme will feature a presentation titled ‘From Schull to Azores and Back’, tracing a solo sail from Schull to the Portuguese archipelago.

This presentation will be given by Tom Newman, who solo sailed from Schull to the Azores and back in his Contessa 32, Sittelle.

The Contessa 32 is a fine seagoing yacht, as I remember from sailing my son Pat’s from Liverpool to Galway over a few days a number of years ago — through a variety of weather conditions — which Tom also experienced on his Azores voyage. His photography will add to his talk.

Special weekend menus, focusing on locally-caught seafood and coastal ingredients, will be offered in the town’s eateries, I’m told.

“When evening falls, the focus turns to traditional West Cork hospitality in the local pubs, which will host live sea shanties, traditional singing sessions, and a community céilí at Schull Harbour Hotel, featuring Arundo. The weekend will wrap up on Sunday, alongside the weekly Schull country market and a family landmarks trail.”

Sounds like a good Cork maritime weekend. More details available at the Schull Land and Sea Heritage Weekend on Eventbrite.

Seascapes podcast Ireland’s only maritime programme. Listen at: https://tommacsweeneyseascapes.ie or wherever you get Podcasts.

Email: tommacsweeneyseascapes@gmail.com.