VIDEO: A life of contentment on Cork's Cape Clear island

NIGHT had fallen and it was totally dark the first time that Bibi Van Tienhoven, from Durban in South Africa, stepped on to Cape Clear, the southernmost of the West Cork islands.

It was only when she woke the next morning and surveyed her new surroundings at Ed Harper’s Goat farm in Lissamona that she realised she had landed somewhere very special.

Spectacular views across Roaringwater Bay met her gaze as she looked across the expanse of ocean towards Schull from her island vantage point eight miles off the coast.

The bleating of the scampering goats, the meow of the farm kittens, and the cries of the gulls were the only sounds that broke through the peaceful surrounds.

“I was amazed – it was absolutely stunning - I could not believe my luck that I had ended up here in such a beautiful place,” she said.

I get to see the most spectacular sunrises and sunsets, it’s such a joy.

Bibi is a long way from her South African home, so how did she end up on an island in West Cork?

“During Covid times, everything had started to decline in terms of employment in Durban. Over the years I had many different jobs in various areas such as banking, in education, and even on a safari park, but during those pandemic years and after, it became more and more difficult to get a full-time job. I also had itchy feet and really wanted to visit other countries.

“A friend had suggested to me that ‘Woofing’ (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) was good fun and a great way to travel, so I decided to give it a go. I landed in Dublin first, but it was a difficult place to get settled and the rents were astronomical, so I checked out the ad’s on the ‘WWOOF’ site and the idea of working on a goat farm appealed to me.”

‘WWOOF’ is a worldwide movement which links organic farmers with people who have an interest in sustainability and who enjoy travelling to new places and are willing to work on the farms. In exchange for helping on the farm, ‘Woofers’ receive bed and board. The scheme offers people great opportunities to experience different cultures and learn new skills.

For farmers such as Ed, who is blind, welcoming ‘Woofers’ to help on his Cape Clear goat farm has proven to be a fantastic practical help.

However, most ‘Woofers’ just stay for a short time, and when they moved on Ed often found himself in a difficult position. The demands of farming and milking his herd of goats was something that needed constant attention, so full time help was essential to him.

When Bibi arrived, Ed was actually on the verge of selling up and forgoing the goat farm, which as well as being a difficult personal choice for him, would also have been a tremendous loss to the island. Anyone who has ever visited Cape will know that a trip to ‘Cléire Goats’ for an ice cream is one of the highlights.

“It’s crazy to think now, but when I decided to come to Cape Clear at first I actually had no idea that it was even an island,” laughed Bibi.

I came to Baltimore and then suddenly realised - Oh, I have to get on this ferry now.

That was in 2021 and Bibi’s arrival has meant that not only does Ed have a wonderful helper on the farm, but since then she has also become his official carer. After his previous guide dog died there was no replacement available, but now Bibi is there to accompany him on occasional outings such as to singing sessions in the island pub which he heartily enjoys.

For her part, Bibi is absolutely delighted to be living full time on Cape and does not miss anything about ‘mainland life’. She speaks to her parents, sister, and adult son regularly on WhatsApp, so the distance seems much smaller.

“There is a rhythm to life on the farm which I really enjoy. Ed milks the goats by hand and sings to them as he’s milking them. I take the milk and turn it into cheese and ice cream. Sometimes I help milk the goats too if we don’t have any other help. Ed has taught me so much about goat farming. I absolutely love them. They are very intelligent creatures and they all have their own personalities.

“There are two male goats. The leader of the pack which people just adore is called ‘Captain Nibbles’, then we have another male goat for breeding purposes and his name is Alfie, and then there are the ‘girls’, Mona, Áine, Grainne, Ailish, Clon, Miróg, Cassia and Shadow. We have another one we call ‘The Mite’ and one called ‘The Waif’. They are very sweet.

“I love working with them and moving the herd from field to field. Ed has been such a great mentor, teaching me everything he knows. He’s an extraordinary human being in all that he has achieved, despite his physical disability. 

I feel very lucky to be his carer - he’s like a father figure to me.

Bibi said people pull together on the island.

“If there’s a crisis then everybody ropes in to help out in any way that they can. For example, last October I slipped and was unlucky enough to break my leg. Ed rang the taxi and people came over to help straight away. The lifeboat came, and there was an ambulance waiting on the pier in Baltimore to take me to the hospital. I was very well looked after. People may not always see eye to eye, but are totally there for each other when there is a crisis.

“I feel very content here. In the evenings, myself and Ed listen to music and I do the crossword. I watch very little TV, sometimes I do watch a bit of Netflix. Occasionally I miss a Chinese takeaway or some sushi, but these are available in Skibbereen and there is always someone out on the mainland who might pick one up for you and bring it back on the ferry.

I occasionally go out to Skibbereen, but not that often. When I’m out I might have a look in the charity shops for some clothes, but really, I do not miss shopping, it was never my thing.

Bibi also enjoys helping out with the Cape Clear Island Lavender Initiative, planting out lavender plants all over the island. Lavender is a self-sustaining crop with a myriad of uses in the home, and many island crafters and producers have incorporated it into their products.

Bibi developed the first ever lavender flavoured ice cream made from goat’s milk, and this has proven to be a big hit with tourists to Cléire Goats.

“I love harvest time and being surrounded by the bumble bees and the butterflies who adore the lavender, we cut it with a scythe, and it’s a lovely slow task, being immersed in all of that gorgeous scent and the sound of the bees humming gently around.”

Lavender, goats, bumble bees and ice cream, Bibi is well grounded on beautiful Cape Clear.