Last orders for David as family restaurant in Youghal is sold

After more than 30 years as the co-owner of Aherne’s Townhouse and Seafood Restaurant in Youghal, David Fitzgibbon is taking to the hills.

One of the country’s best-known seafood restaurants has been sold, and David is eyeing up some much-needed leisure time.

“Being in this business, we always had to take our annual holidays in November,” says David, who is co-owner with his brother John and who is also head chef. Their wives, Gaye and Kate are involved in the day-to-day business as well.

“I’ve always loved Donegal and its hills,” says David. “But who wants to go to Donegal in November?”

Now that sale agreed for the North Main Street in Youghal premises is sorted, David, who is retiring, can spread his wings wherever his fancy takes him.

Why now?

“I have the bus pass now!” says David, laughing. “So it is well time.”

The business has been running for more than 100 years, through three generations of the same family.

There was a time when Madge and Jimmy Aherne sold pints of Guinness and pounds of butter. When their daughter Betty married a dashing Dub, army Captain Jerry Fitzgibbon, it was the start of a new era for Aherne’s, which is in the same family since 1923.

Betty and Jerry’s sons, David and John, took over the business from their parents in the early 1990s.

Aherne’s, situated by the River Blackwater on the Cork/Waterford border, has a history of longevity.

Ann Cronin has worked there for 45 years. She has no notion of retiring.

“Our famous brown bread is Ann’s secret recipe,” says David. “Working here was Ann’s first summer job, and the rest is history.”

Ann’s memory serves her well.

“Jerry Fitzgibbbon interviewed me and his wife Betty asked me how soon could I start?” she recalls.

Ann soon got into the swing of things.

“I went in on a Wednesday with no waitressing experience at all and I am here ever since.”

Over time, Ann went on to work for David and John who was also a Captain in the army.

“They are like second family to me,” says Ann, 73. “I felt at home straight away.”

Ann has served some distinguished guests down the years.

“The late Derek Davis enjoyed coming to east Cork for fishing,” says Ann. “He was often in and out of here for his lunch or his dinner. Derek was very nice. A real gentleman.

“I also had the pleasure of serving former president Mary Robinson, who is a lovely lady and so friendly.”

There is a framed letter from 1970 in the lounge from Taoiseach Jack Lynch thanking the Ahernes for their hospitality.

“We had a lot of visitors of note over the years,” says David. “Some had to be put to bed after a good night!”

Now the Fitzgibbon brothers are putting the family business to bed.

They’ve had a long innings and have a long connection to the premises.

“I remember at age 11 in primary school and cycling home,” says David. “It was always really busy here at lunchtime. I’d drop my bike and work the lunch hour.”

He was chauffeured back to school.

“The CEO of Seafield Fabrics came in most days for his lunch. I got a ride with him back in his car to school! I thought nothing of it.

“When I could drive, I remember driving over to Ballycotton Seafood on a Friday night for fresh fish.

“Getting to know the regular holiday-makers coming to Youghal every summer was lovely. We enjoyed catching up and sharing our news with one another.”

Good news travels fast.

“One of our trainee chefs was heading to Dublin,” says David. “When he brought his CV with him to Trocadero Restaurant and they saw that he had worked here, he was asked to start work the same night.”

David himself served his time at Arbutus Lodge in Cork, Kelly’s of Rosslare, and Nico’s in London, where Paul Flynn was head chef.

Time moved on, and the brothers moved home to their toots.

“Dad was getting older,” says David. “John and I took over the business building on 14 bedrooms in the early ’90s.”

What way was the Irish economy back then?

“We borrowed £350,000 and we paid back £67,000, the interest was so high,” says David.

“The question then was could you afford to pay back the interest and not the loan.”

However, trade was good for the Fitzgibbons in sweet Youghal Bay, the fresh fish was plentiful, and the punters came from near and far.

“Local trade was always the backbone of the business,” says David.

“And we were fortunate that people from Cork, Dungarvan and Clonmel continued to travel to dine here over the years.”

Businesses everywhere floundered during the crash 18 years ago.

“The crash of 2008 changed everything,” says David. “We were lucky to bounce back. The family always prided family and tradition.”

Aherne’s was traditionally a fine dining experience in a cosy welcoming atmosphere.

People enjoyed a tipple here too.

“I remember this guy who had no food. He had lots to drink,” says David.

“We were worried when he fell asleep at the counter and we couldn’t wake him up. Before, he might dose off and wake up again. But not this time.”

What did David and his crew do?

“We called the ambulance and the guards,” says David. “The man woke up as he was carried out the door!”

Some memories never fade.

“The Ironman event brought great community spirit and energy to the town,” says David. “It gave Youghal that extra profile.”

Stories were handed down in the bar.

“My dad told me that on the last night of filming of Moby Dick, there was a free bar for the whole town!”

Will David miss sharing stories with his patrons?

“I’ll miss meeting people,” he says,

“Everyone was always in good form coming in here. They were out for enjoyment and a good time.

“We’ve met so many interesting people from all over the world. I do think the hospitality trade is for young people. The 40 years we were here has flown by.”

What did David and the staff talk to the holidaymakers about?

“The question was always, what brought you here?”

David says that even being at ‘the end’ of the county, people always enjoyed coming to sweet Youghal Bay and enjoying what its surroundings had on offer.

“We had some brilliant summers,” says David.

Now he is looking forward to more brilliant summers at a slower pace.

“It will be great to be off in the summer,” says David.

“When I am asked, can you? Will you? I can say yes, yes, yes!”