Meet the Italian man behind Cork city’s latest pizzeria

Opening a new business can be stressful. Just ask Antonio D’Orio, the Italian co-owner of a new food place in Cork city.

“I did not sleep for three nights before we opened!” admits the Naples man, whose business, Epomeo Pizza, on Princes Street claims to sell ‘the most authentic pizza in town’.

Antonio’s business partner is Denis Dervisevic, from Croatia, while their general manager, Anto Peric, is also from Croatia.

Now that the pizzeria is up and running, Antonio seems happier.

“I was very tired renovating, decorating, making sure everything is just right to open up. It was all hands-on deck and we worked very hard.”

But it was worth it. No?

“Of course it was worth it,” says Antonio.

“My amigos and I, we work night and day for six months to make the best pizza place in town.

“For all of those months, I developed dough and recipes to produce the best of the best pizza.”

Antonio spreads his arms wide, which are strong from pounding and perfecting pizza dough.

“Take a look around mio caro amico (my dear friend),” he says.

“Look at the magnificent art on the walls, look at the décor, look at our extensive wine list. Most of all, look at the Neapolitan pizza choices we have to offer.”

I do look around and I notice how the diners at Epomeo are seen and not heard, so intent are they on feasting on the ‘best pizza in town’.

Why did Antonio leave his native Naples 2,928km away to come to Cork?

“I came to Cork seven years ago when I was 29,” says Antonio.

“I heard it was a nice place. I came to check it out and I stayed! I worked first in Bella Napoli in Tom Barry’s Cork, making lasagna, Bolognese, and carbonara. I liked it very much.”

It was home-from-home.

“For my whole life, since I was 14, I have worked in the kitchen making classic Italian dishes,” he says.

With his Italian credentials and his years of experience, Antonio went to work alongside the owner of Gallo & Gelato, Denis Dervisevic, in Wilton. Denis knew an authentic cook when he worked with one, and knew Antonio, with his culinary skills and his people skills, could go far.

“Denis and I became very good friends,” says Antonio. “He proposed a mutual collaboration and a business investment when Tedo Tapas here in Princes Street closed.

“Denis encouraged me to lead the project. I was happy to do so, especially when my other good friend, Anto, came on board as restaurant manager. It was a great opportunity for all of us.

“Anto and I met when we both came to Cork. We worked together for a time, we hung out. Anto and I have lots in common like soccer and Italian food! We are, how you say, ‘besties’.”

What’s so special about Antonio’s pizza dough?

“The dough comes directly from Naples,” says Antonio. “It is a classic Italian recipe. The best. I build on it here, on the spot.

“Even though it has a big crust, it is lighter. Before baking the pizzas at 450 degrees, six at a time, there is resting time allowed for the dough. It takes from 28 hours to 34 hours to raise and roll the dough.”

Then it’s time to rock n’ roll. And eat.

“I love welcoming the people in here,” says Antonio. “Italian people and Irish people are very alike. In Italy, we are friendly and we become part of the family quickly. Even though I am far away, it still feels like home.

“Our neighbours here on Princes Street were so kind when we set up shop. Clancy’s and Rossini’s welcomed us warmly. They were very friendly and helpful.”

The restaurant is named after Mount Epomeo, the highest mountain on the volcanic island of Ischia, in the Gulf of Naples,

“It’s the highest point on the island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples, reaching 789 metres,” Antonio says. “The name ‘Epomeo’ is thought to come from the Greek word ‘Epopon’ or ‘Epopeo’, meaning a place with a wide view.

“It’s not just a mountain, it’s the beating heart of Ischia, watching over the island like a silent guardian,” says Antonio, transported back to this place of beauty.

“But behind its rugged beauty lies an ancient myth, one that gives the land its soul.”

Pray do tell.

“Legend tells of Typhoeus, a fearsome giant born of Tartarus and Gaia, who dared to challenge Zeus for the throne of the Gods, As punishment, Zeus struck him down and trapped him beneath this very island. His massive body buried deep within the earth gave rise to Ischia’s volcanic heart, Mount Epomeo.

“The island’s hot springs, volcanic stream, and tremors are said to be the restless sighs of Typhoeus, still struggling for his eternal prison, dreaming of revenge and freedom.”

How does this fascinating legend tie into the menu at ‘Epomeo’?

“As you explore our menu, know that each flavour is a tribute to this land shaped by fire and legend, a culinary journey rooted in the history, mystery and spirit of Epomeo,” whispers Antonio.

What is the signature Epomeo pizza?

“Sauteed onions, baby potatoes, with black pepper, makes for a delicious combination,” says Antonio.

“Adding further ingredients like Parma ham, mushrooms, or olives to the mix, is simply delicious.”

What is a Vulcano pizza that is catching my eye as I read the artistic, beautifully crafted menu?

“San Marzano tomato sauce, Fior di Latte mozzarella, fresh basil, olive oil and parmesan,” says Antonio.

In challenging times, even with the best skills and the best intentions, how does Antonio think Epomeo will fare out in the competitive restaurant market in Cork?

“It is a great challenge for me,” says Antonio. “I know a lot. Denis knows a lot. With his guidance and our trust in one another, and trust in our nine staff, we can make a good go of the business.

“Time and consistency will help us, and we all know practice makes perfect.”

Antonio and his team have created a home-from-home for pizza lovers.

“It is not fancy, but it is cosy and relaxing,” says Antonio.

Does he make his dough and eat it?

“I can eat two at a time! I eat two substantial pizzas with my favourite ingredients.

“The Bambino pizza is for the little children who like to eat baby Italian gelato as well.”

The grown-ups are well catered for at Epomeo too.

“The wine and cheese boards, or salami and olive tasting boards to share are very popular,” Antonio says.

“Italian red wine is very good with cheese and pastrami, and of course with our classic home-made lasagna. People like Coca-Cola also with their pizza, or a cold beer.”

Antonio, full of Italian charm and full of Cork charm, invites me to dinner.

“You will come back to sample our Italian pizza, the best pizza in town?”

I sure will, I tell him. But I sure won’t be eating two pizzas!

Epomeo Pizza, 31, Princes Street, Cork T12 YD37. Phone: 021-4802066