Build it, and they will come - my day at Dzogchen Beara retreat

Just over a year after it opened following major building work, ADRIENNE ACTON heads to Dzogchen Beara in West Cork to sample a day in the tranquil and beautiful setting
Build it, and they will come - my day at Dzogchen Beara retreat

The Dozgchen Beara temple in West Cork in the evening sunlight

A warm breeze is coming up from the cliff edge, the sun is peeking through the clouds, and there is the sound of waves crashing on the wild Atlantic coastline...

Standing here at Dzogchen Beara, a Tibetan Buddhist retreat centre in West Cork, you begin to understand why this place of serenity is so special, why Peter and Harriet Cornish fell in love with this area 50 years ago, in 1975, and why people keep coming back.

The couple bought 150 acres with the intention of building a retreat, a centre of peace and serenity open to all. Their life’s work has left a legacy that offers a special haven for those in need of or in search of inner tranquillity.

It has taken 15 years of dedication and determination to see the temple come to fruition and it is indeed a wonder to behold.

Donations from all over the world were pledged to bring to life this extraordinary building in this wild and beautiful landscape.

Rob Van Willegen, who came here on a retreat in 2008 and eventually got his chance to move here permanently with his wife, says: ‘We were so fortunate to find Brian Murphy of Beara Construction, who was happy to work in stages as the donations came in, and took on this project with such care and attention to detail. From preparing the ground to where we are now has taken eight years.”

Around 85% of visitors to the centre are Irish, and once they’ve come for a visit, many are eager to come back.

One of the views from the accommodation rooms at the centre
One of the views from the accommodation rooms at the centre

All of the rooms and facilities are completely accessible. Whether someone has mobility issues or is in a wheelchair, everything is open to them. “We built the place with that in mind,” Rob says.

The spiritual care centre is there for those that have been diagnosed with a terminal illness. Perhaps they want some respite and some support, Rob says, and maybe they would like to join in with meditation and sit in the garden and spend some time with nature.

There are three shrine rooms, the care centre, the centre house, and the temple, and they’re open to all.

The centre runs 45 retreats per year and most of those are at the weekend.

They have on average 11,000 people come every year for a visit or for the retreats, and they also do online courses. There are morning meditations which many people come to. They are free and open to everyone.

Leon Rossiter, from Dundalk, who is at the centre 11 years, and is the site project manager, tells me about the challenges they had building such an intricate temple with the wild Atlantic weather literally on their doorstep.

“I tested everything for three years before considering it durable,” he says. “Some products started to blister and crack in the face of the elements so it was vital to have the right materials.

They sourced their materials and tradespersons locally, and a company from Dublin were on hand to build the acoustic ceiling in the temple.

The white paint used is also used on lighthouses, the boat paint came from Bere Island, local coppersmiths were used, and it is a source of great pride that local tradespersons were able to bring this extraordinary project to life.

One of the rooms at The Dozgchen Beara temple in West Cork
One of the rooms at The Dozgchen Beara temple in West Cork

So, what do people say about this place when they visit? Some say it is like coming home, home to themselves, their true selves.

In a sometimes chaotic world, they value the chance to ground themselves and embrace the Buddhist ethos of goodness.

Someone may be staying at one of the cottages, and they will feel emotional about connecting with nature and with themselves. It’s not unusual for someone to cry as they connect with themselves again.

Leon says that the vibe of the centre also has something to do with the land, the landscape, the open space, the ocean, and the quartz in the ground.

“There is nothing about the layout of this place I would change,” Leon says, “we worked very hard to make sure that it is perfect. Every detail was mulled over and consulted about before work began.

Inside the temple, there is an air of calm. The sun streams through the large windows and the ocean is on the horizon.

The colours are opulent and cheerful and warming. Everything is perfectly placed with space between chairs for comfortable meditation on soft furnishings. No hard boards here!

Whether you wish to learn about the four schools of Buddhism, or the lineage associated with this temple, or the fundamentals of the religion, everything is open for discussion, and the people here are happy to chat and to listen.

Do you need to be Buddhist to stay here? Absolutely not. Everyone is welcome, that’s why there is a Buddhist shrine and a Christian shrine on the grounds.

Leon explains the Stupa on the Dzogchen Beara site.

The Stupa is a representation of the enlightened mind of the Buddha. It was created with 60 tons of granite and stands six metres tall.

Inside there is a life force tree and thousands of mantras on scrolls along with relics.

People are invited to walk around while meditating or maybe praying for healing for themselves or someone special to them.

One of the rooms at The Dozgchen Beara temple in West Cork
One of the rooms at The Dozgchen Beara temple in West Cork

Throughout the year, the centre offers Loving Kindness Meditation sessions - for example, there is one in May for educators, be they teachers, youth workers or counsellors.

In June, there is one for carers in Ireland. The sessions focus on nurturing a genuine kindness towards ourselves and gradually expanding that kindness outwards to others.

So, maybe it’s time to get away from social media and world worry. Maybe leave your watch at home and make the journey along some of the most beautiful scenery and breathe some clean, refreshing air.

Sit in the meditation garden and listen to the wild Atlantic. Sample some of the fare at the café like the turmeric or beetroot lattes (there’s also Barry tea if you’re not feeling adventurous), as well as sour cherry cheesecake or apple pie, and connect with your inner peace.

It might just be the best road trip you’ve ever taken.

Private rooms in the Spiritual Care Centre at Dzogchen Beara with en suite bathrooms and ocean views are available throughout the year. Some have their own private conservatory. Minimum two people per night.

Guest rooms cost €100/€63 per person sharing from October to April, and €120/€73 per person sharing May to September. Rooms with a conservatory are slightly dearer.

Garranes Farmhouse Hotel is open all year round. Rooms in the dormitories cost between €20-80 per person per night.

There are three self-catering cottages open to guests all year round, They cost between €855-995 in low season, and €1,100-1,380 in high season. Shorter stays are available.

See www.dzogchenbeara.org - the centre is a registered charity.

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